
I remember looking out the window of the airplane at first light. Wondering if the dense greenery below was the rainforest. I remember being in awe, and although I really had no idea what I was looking down upon, I allowed myself to believe it was my first views of the Amazon.
I was on my way to participate in a “surf exchange” in Florianopolis, Brasil with a small group of east coast surfers. I was 17 years old and fresh off a an early defeat in the US Championships that were held in Florida that year. Although I never liked losing early in an event, knowing that I would soon be surfing in South America seemed to lessen the sting.
I really didn’t know what to expect on the trip. There was no internet to study up on surf breaks, food or even the currency exchange rate. Travel during this era was more about things happening by accident rather than happening by planning. Looking back, I’m amazed how “into the unknown” we truly used to venture. Especially in this age where most people like to have routes, meals, lodgings and transportation planned to the T. Continue reading “The Brasilian Storm, Before the Brasilian Storm” →